Most people know about Mt. Rushmore and the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, but there is so much more to see in South Dakota. From the Native Americans who lived here long before the settlers, to miners and gamblers who flooded the Black Hills looking to make their fortune, this area is rich in history. Conflict and struggle seem to make up much of that history, but the beauty of the land is without question. We spent 5 days taking in the historic sites and stunning landscapes from the beauty of the Black Hills to the starkness of the Badlands.
Deadwood in the Black Hills
Our journey through South Dakota started in Deadwood. Being a fan of the HBO series by the same name and Wild Bill Hickok we were excited to see the historic place where it all took place. We watched a re-enactment of the trial of Jack McCall, the man who killed Wild Bill, which was both entertaining and a bit touristy. We drank whisky and listened to live music at Saloon #10 complete with sawdust on the floor.
I ate one of the largest cuts of Prime Rib I have ever had at Legends Steakhouse, the oldest operational restaurant in South Dakota. I would highly recommend getting in line to get a reservation for dinner here, as they do not take advance reservations. We stayed at a very cozy bed and breakfast, the 1899 Inn, just up the street from downtown. The period furnishings, delicious breakfast, and stories from the owners made this a great stay. After breakfast, we stopped by the graveyard to see the graves of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary). This large graveyard on a hill overlooking the town affords great views of the town of Deadwood and is a nice morning walk.
Spearfish Canyon
Spearfish Canyon Highway or US Highway 14A is a scenic route from Deadwood to the city of Spearfish Canyon. We took this route on our way to North Dakota. During Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, this is a busy stretch of highway. This drive, and detour from the most direct route, is highly recommended with its stunning views of the canyon walls and meandering Spearfish Creek. There are plenty of spots to pull over and take pictures, and you will want to stop, especially at Bridal Veil Falls.
After spending time up in North Dakota we came back down into the Badlands of South Dakota. Our travels in North Dakota are covered in a separate post.
Badlands, South Dakota
The Badlands stretch for as far as the eye can see. It is obvious why the name ‘Badlands’ stuck, as the sandstone cliffs and silt valleys must have made travel through this area nearly impossible for pioneers settling west. Nowadays visiting this area is very convenient as there is a nice modern visitor center, as with all National Parks. The Badlands Loop road winds through the remarkable vistas with pullouts for wandering into the park on mostly well-marked trails.
We stayed at Cedar Pass Lodge in one of the basic cabins, which was comfortable for the 2 nights we spent there. The simple accommodations are right outside the main park entrance and visitor center, making it ideal for a quick visit to the area. There is one basic restaurant/cafe where everyone has their meals or grabs items to go. One evening we went to the evening Ranger talk on the night sky, but an impending thunderstorm blocked our views of the stars. This storm arrived with incredible power off the plains and sent us scurrying back to our cabin, thankful we weren’t in a tent. Yet, another reason this place is called the Badlands.
We spend most of the time doing the scenic drive and pulling over for some short walks to take pictures. However, we did brave one moderate hike up the Notch Trail, which involved a few steep climbs and a rope ladder. I would suggest doing at least one hike in the Badlands to really experience just how otherworldly the landscape is.
Monuments in the Black Hills
One of the most recognizable landmarks in America is Mt. Rushmore. The National Park Service does a great job maintaining and illustrating the history of building this famous sculpture on the hillside. We went to Mt. Rushmore simply looking to take a few pictures on July 4th but ended up staying for 4 hours learning about this great American undertaking.
We also ventured over to Crazy Horse Monument which is not funded by the U.S. government and has been undergoing construction for 75 years! I can appreciate the intent behind this monument and the desire to remain independent. However, the fees to visit were high, and the U.S. government, at this stage in our history, could do a lot to help finish this monument and give it a proper place in our history.
Caves in the Black Hills
The two main caves in the area are the Wind and Jewel caves. It was hard to get pictures underground but the tours were immersive and informative, as they typically are at sites managed by the US National Park Service.
Wind Cave is the larger of the two, and the trek underground is also the easier of the two. The cave is known for its honeycomb-shaped calcite formations, which are known as boxwork. And it gets its name from the wind that is constantly blowing through the cave.
Jewel Cave has interesting calcite crystal formations and impressive stalactites and stalagmites. This cave also has steeper climbs, was a bit harder to walk through, and was wetter and more slippery. If you only had time for one, I would choose the Jewel Cave for its diversity of formations.
Be sure to get tickets beforehand as the tours sell out at both caves. Also, expect it to be cool and humid underground, there are stairs, and closed-toed shoes are required.
Custer State Park
We drove through Custer State Park specifically to see the Needles Eye. An amazing natural stone formation shaped just like the eye of a needle. This park has one of the most scenic drives in all of the Black Hills and it is remarkable how different this scenery is from the Badlands a mere 100 miles away!
Accommodations in the Black Hills
As we were meeting friends in the area we stayed in two locations while visiting Mt. Rushmore and Custer State park area. The first place was further south of Mt Rushmore called Blue Bell Lodge. Rustic Cabin accommodations were small but comfortable. There were lots of activities such as horseback riding and a chuck wagon cookout. We were just there for one night so took our evening meal in the hotel restaurant which was quite good.
We met our friends further north in Keystone, which is a quick drive to Mt. Rushmore. A quaint Western town, albeit a bit touristy, there are lots of good restaurants and shops and the 1880 Train which was a fun excursion on a restored steam train. We stayed at K Bar S Lodge which was a more standard hotel with some rooms featuring views of Mt. Rushmore.
In Summary
After visiting South Dakota, I realized why it has such a long history of tourism. So many natural sites and history (albeit not all pleasant) to experience and learn. This state, for me, signifies the early American West and the great effort it took to settle it. It also shows what a focus on conservation can do to re-ignite the natural beauty, as pictures of Deadwood from the 1880s show significant mining and forest damage on the surrounding hillsides. This damage is reversed now as tourism and conservation have brought back the natural beauty of this place.
