As part of a recent road trip, we headed to North Dakota, a state neither of us knew much about. It was summer, the best time to visit this far north, and our focus was the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The park is named after Theodore Roosevelt, our 26th president, who spent time ranching and hunting here before it was a national park.
The park is spread over three units; South Unit, North Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch Unit, and covers an impressive 70,000 acres. We focused our time on the South and North Units, as the Elkhorn Ranch Unit is hard to get to without a proper 4-wheel drive vehicle.
Tips for visiting the national park can be found at the end of this post.
Medora
We stayed in Medora at the Rough Riders Hotel. I would recommend this hotel because it is centrally located in Medora, has a good restaurant, comfortable, clean rooms, and a great 1880s-period design.
A couple of recommended tourist attractions are the Medora Musical and Pitchfork Steak Fondue. These can be done together since they are at the same location, which is a short drive outside Medora. The Pitchfork Steak Fondue is exactly what it sounds like, steak cooked in hot oil served in a large covered picnic area with your selection of sides. Now, the steak is not the best I have had, but it was a fun and unique experience. The Medora Musical is a family-friendly affair of song and dance. What it lacks a ‘plot’, it makes up for with its breathtaking sunset setting in the canyons.
Painted Canyon Visitor Center
As we drove through the North Dakota grasslands, we both wondered “where is this park?” North Dakota is mostly flat with large grasslands and empty highways. We didn’t realize we were approaching one of the most stunning canyons until we were on top of it. The grasslands suddenly drop away into a vista like nothing I’ve seen. The sun reflects on shear walls of clay and sandstone eroded away by water and time.
Painted Canyon is part of the South Unit only a few miles down the highway from the main South Unit Visitors Center. It has its own smaller visitor center as well. We hiked a couple of shorter, easier hikes in Painted Canyon. The trails were not crowded, shaded in spots, and provided many good picture-taking opportunities. Very lovely all-around.
The South Unit
We arrived early to spend the day driving the loop road in the main South Unit. There is plenty of pull-offs to stop and get out for exploration in the park. Our hikes were on the shorter side (no more than 1-2 hours each) and we were able to get a real feel for the beauty of the park. The highlights for us were the Burning Coal Vein Trail, Buck Hill Trail, and Wind Canyon Overlook. We didn’t make it to the petrified forest but we understand that is also a highlight for many.
We also visited the Maltese Cross Cabin located just outside the South Unit Visitor Center. This small cabin was restored and relocated here from Theodore Roosevelt’s cattle ranch. It includes a few odds and ends from his time here and is a small but informative exhibit.
The North Unit
Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Unit
The North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is 70 miles north of Medora and the South Unit. This part of the park features a much more remote landscape with the Little Missouri River running through it.
Once you enter the park the 14-mile loop drive allows for taking in the sites mostly from your car. We did less hiking here as the trails are longer and not as accessible from the pull-offs. It is also possible to get closer to wildlife here as there are simply fewer hikers. The highlights were the Cannonball Concretions, formed over millennia by hard mineral concentrations building up in the surrounding sandstone, and the River Bend Overlook which has the best view of the North Unit.
In Summary
North Dakota and Theodore Roosevelt National Park while both a lesser-known state and National Park should be a must-visit on everyone’s travel list.
Tips
- We found 3 days to be a sufficient visit but you could spend weeks hiking into the backcountry of this park.
- The town of Medora is the best place to stay for accommodations close to the park without camping.
- The park is remote so be prepared to drive into and around the park roads to get to hiking trails. The loops in both the North and South units are both about 90 minutes drive. There are many pullouts to take pictures and hike trails, so the actual time will be longer.
- During the busy season, we found it best to get into the park early to avoid traffic as everyone is on the same road.
- Be aware of your surroundings, the park is filled with wildlife, bison, wild horses, prairie dogs, deer, and rattlesnakes.
- Keep your distance from bison especially, for obvious reasons.
- The summer months are hot and there are mosquitos, so a hat, sunblock, and bug spray are a must.
