When most people think of traveling in Italy, it’s usually to places such as Rome, Venice, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. Rarely, do they think of the region in the heel of the boot, Puglia. Bari, the largest city in the Puglia region, is a cruise ship stop on the Adriatic. However, besides this port city, you’ll encounter few tourists and when you do, they will typically be Italian or at least European.
English was barely spoken in some places, and I had to recall my high school Spanish (the closest language to Italian that I know) to attempt communicate. Luckily that worked out, as the Puglia area of Italy was at various times under the rule of the Spanish, or more specifically Aragon. As such the Barese dialect in the region has influences from the Spanish, as well as the Greek and French. However, if I had thought of it, I would have used Google translate.
We spent 14 days exploring, learning, and eating in this region of Italy and discovered that it’s the perfect place for an Italian holiday without all the crowds. Puglia is truly a hidden gem.
Bari
Bari’s international airport is the main airport for the region, and our entry and departure point to the region. Being the region’s largest metro area with over a million people, the primary airport location, and a cruise ship port on the Adriatic, Bari is a busy place.
We spent two days here wandering through the narrow streets around Piazza Mercantile, stopping to watch the street performers, visiting a couple of churches, and shopping in the local markets for wine and charcuterie to enjoy on our rooftop.
Basilica Cattedrale Metropolitana Primaziale San Sabino
The Bari Cathedral, Basilica Cattedrale Metropolitana Primaziale San Sabino, was built in the late 12th and 13th centuries in the Romanesque style. The ornate crypt contains the preserved relics of San Sabino for whom the cathedral is named.
Built on the site where a former Byzantine cathedral was destroyed, old frescos and mosaics from the former cathedral have been preserved, and were the most interesting part of the cathedral.
Basilica di San Nicola
Basilica di San Nicola was built in the 11th and 12th centuries to preserve the relics of Saint Nicholas, San Nicola, for whom the Basilica is named. We walked in on a wedding here, so did not spend a lot of time exploring the interior.
Teatro Petruzzelli
The Teatro Petruzzelli, the 4th largest Italian theatre, was finished in 1903. It was completely destroyed by arsonists in 1991, so the structure today is not the original. The theater was rebuilt in 2009 to resemble the original structure and continues to host performances and international artists.
Dining and Accommodations
We had our first traditional Apulian meal at La Uascezze. Located near the Piazza Mercantile, with exposed stone walls, it was cozy and inviting. The food is authentic to the region, and it’s not pizza. The traditional dishes are centered around focaccia bread, burrata, pasta, fresh vegetables, and legumes.
Our accommodations were close to the center of town at the Arco Della Neve Guest House, and when we left, it was very easy to rent a car from Avis and get on the road.
Alberobello
Our next destination was an afternoon stop at Alberobello. This is a traditional village known for its unique white stone huts with cone-shaped roofs, trulli. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Here we tried the local Apulian dish of Orecchiette Con Le Cime Di Rapa. This pasta dish features fresh pasta shaped like an ear and a sauce of finely chopped leafy greens of rapini or broccoli rabe.
Ostuni
Often called the “White City”, Ostuni is a hilltop town with whitewashed buildings set above some of the oldest olive groves in the world.
In town, we wandered through the narrow alleyways and past the Basilica di San Vitale for dinner. However, the highlights in Ostuni were beyond the hilltop town at the masserias, fortified farms on estates in the Puglia region, with old olive groves and delicious food.
Osteria del Lempo Perso
After walking past the Basilica di San Vitale, we arrived at Osteria del Lempo Perso for dinner. Here, we were served traditional Apulian antipasti, pasta, mains, and regional wines in a cave. For the foodies, Osteria del Lempo Perso does not have a Michelin star, but it is featured in the Michelin guide. The meal was exquisite, and the hand-wrapped artisanal ice cream cubes dipped in chocolate and served before dessert are not made in-house, but have their own fabulous story.
Antica Masseria Bancati
Masseria Bancati is a producer of organic olive oil, also known as “liquid gold.” It’s also home to an olive tree that is over 3000 years old known as “Il Grande Vecchio,” translated as “The Great Elder.”
We strolled through the olive groves on a small private tour. Our guide showed us the thousand year old olive trees and educated us on the traditional olive oil making process. At the end of the tour, we had the opportunity to sample and purchase their olive oils.
From the masseria, we had a view of the hillside town of Ostuni, the “White City”, gleaming in the sunlight.
Masseria Il Frantoio
At Masseria Il Frantoio, we had the opportunity to dine underneath the stars in a courtyard surrounded by olive trees. The dinner here was a multi-course feast of traditional food prepared not by trained chefs, but by women from the region with a passion for serving and showcasing their regional food culture. This was an unforgettable dining experience.
Regina di Ulivi
Situated off the beaten path and down a bumpy road, the Regina di Ulivi is a beautiful oasis amongst vineyards and olive groves. The accommodations are in trulli, the traditional rural architecture of the region, but with all the modern amenities. We spent an afternoon lazing around the pool and enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
Porto Cesareo
Porto Cesareo, located on the coast of the Ionian Sea, is the home of a nature preserve and a marine protected area. There is a 10-mile stretch of beach in a protected bay where the water is calm and clear. The town has beach-town vibes with plenty of boating activities, restaurants, cafes, and clubs.
Gallipoli
The other place we visited on the coast of the Ionian Sea was Gallipoli, which is a historic center rather than a beach resort town. During WWI, the Allied Powers launched an unsuccessful campaign in Gallipoli in an attempt to control the sea route from Europe to Russia.
Gallipoli Old Town
We visited the old town, which is located on a limestone island and linked to the mainland by a bridge built in the 16th century. Our sightseeing walk was a loop around the old town walking by a few churches.
Chiesa di San Domenico al Rosario, Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi, Basilica Concattedrale di Sant’Agata
Gallipoli Castle
We toured the Gallipoli Castle, an imposing medieval fortress surrounded by the sea. Originally built by the Byzantines in the 13th century, it was added to over the years till the 18th century and guards the entrance to Gallipoli.
Lunch was at Osteria Briganti, where we discovered one of our favorite and not very expensive rosé wines, Five Roses. It is the first rosé wine bottled and sold in Italy in 1943. The American name is because a U.S. general responsible for provisions during WW2 requested a huge supply of rosé for his troops.
Specchia Gallone
Palazzo Sienna in Specchia Gallone was our base for a few days as we explored Puglia’s southern area. This historic residence, situated in a small village, was once the home to rich merchants. With only nine suites, a large saltwater swimming pool, and a beautiful garden, it’s the perfect retreat after a day of sightseeing.
“Palazzo Siena is for those who want a taste of the history and traditions of Puglia.”
Uggiano La Chiesa
Nearby Specchia Gallone is another small village, Uggiano La Chiesa. The reason why this village is worth a mention is Matisse Ristorante. We had dinner here two nights in a row because we could not try everything we wanted the first night. Our meals consisted of simply prepared seafood, including salt-baked whole fish, and delicious homemade pasta.
Otranto
Otranto is a coastal town and port city where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian Sea connected by the Otranto Straight.
We spent the day here meandering through the town visiting the Aragonese Castle of Otranto and Otranto Cathedral.
Otranto
Aragonese Castle of Otranto
The Aragonese Castle of Otranto originally built in the 11th century and added to in the 15th century is a pentagon building with five walls and four towers surrounded by a moat. Access to the castle was via a drawbridge. Once a fortress critical in the defense of the city, today it is a cultural center hosting events and exhibitions.
Otranto Cathedral
Consecrated in 1088 and dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, the Otranto Cathedral’s most interesting features are its rose window and 12th century mosaic floors.
Otranto Cathedral
Puglia’s Southeastern Coast
We took a leisurely drive one day to see the southeastern coast, which included stops at Castro, Tricase, Gagliano del Capo, and Santa Maria di Leuca. Any of these places would be a lovely spot for a day on the beach. Get there early to get a spot as these places can get busy.
In Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost point in Puglia, we visited the Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae and the Capo Santa Maria di Leuca Lighthouse with views of the harbor before heading back north.
Another place worth a visit in the southeast is the Grotto della Poesia translated as the Cave of Poetry. This is a natural pool surrounded by limestone cliffs with caves and a tunnel to the sea. It’s a perfect swimming hole on a warm day.
Lecce
Lecce is the second most populated city in Puglia, after Bari. This was only a short stop for us as we headed back toward the northern part of Puglia.
Lecce
Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
Here we visited our last and most ornate cathedral of the trip, Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta which is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Originally built in the 12th century with a rebuild in the 17th century it sits in the Piazza del Duomo near the center of the city.
Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
Ancient Roman Ruins
Preferring ancient ruins to churches, my preferred site in Lecce was the 2nd-century Roman amphitheater situated near Sant’Oronzo Square. Partially buried with other monuments and structures, the ancient site, which sits right in the middle of a bustling city with the only McDonalds I’ve seen nearby, is quite a juxtaposition.
Polignano a Mare
We spend our last night in the region in Polignano a Mare. This is a popular beach town famous for its restaurant in a natural cave, Grotta Palazzese.
The Grotta Palazzese cave is set on a cliff that overlooks the Adriatic Sea, and the dining setting is truly remarkable. Reservations are required, and this is an experience not to be missed. However, it is a bit touristy, and you will find a better representation of Puglia’s cuisine elsewhere.
Watching the sunset into the Adriatic Sea and dinner in a stunning cave on the cliffs was the perfect finale. Of all the regions in Italy that we’ve been to so far, Puglia may be the most unexpected.
